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Granada Capital City Northern Area Alpujarra and Southern Area Coast Flamenco

The Costume from the Northern Area

The female costume, called traje de refajo (typical folclore skirt suit) is composed by a rich skirt or woolen skirt with woolen flowers embroidered by hand. These refajos are also characterised by their lively colours. In some occasions the initials of the owners were embroidered. With the refajo, this suit has a lace or black velvet blouse or bodice, adjusted to the waist and with long sleeves, also called armilla. The neck and the sleeves are finished with white handmade lace. To accompany this suit, there is a black lace apron decorated with gems and sequins, a patterned shawl, woolen or fringed, over the shoulders or head, one woolen embroidered faltriquera (a kind of small bag made of cloth hanging out over the skirt and the apron) like the refajo, thread white openwork tights and knitted drawings in the garbancillo style or woolen tights with coloured stripes. The underwear is composed of a petticoat and an underskirt with crochet finishes and ribbon decorations. As footwear they use shoes with a esparto grass sole or alpargatas with coloured laces, or even black heeled shoes. The hair is pulled up in a low bun and decorated with a bunch of country flowers.

The male costume is composed of woolen cloth trousers up to the knee, and open on the sides and closed with silver buttons, a velvet black vest with a satin lining on the back decorated with flowers and caireles (silver decorations hanging out from the leg of the horsemen) and silver buttons and a long sleeved white shirt. As footwear they use shoes with a esparto grass sole with coloured laces or leather boots over cotton white tights. As accessories, this suit is decorated with a woolen girdle on the waist with embroideries made by hand. And a handkerchief tied to the head under a hat called catite or calañés made with black velvet.

These suits were used for special parties and events.

In this area it is important to mention the suit of cascaborras, calcaborras, or cascamorras, characteristic from La Puebla de Don Fabrique. These characters (all male) were members of the Souls brotherhood Hermandad de las Animas (founded to help with the expenses of the masses praying for the dead people) and successors of the old guard in charge of controlling the Moorish. Their name comes from the tool that they carry, the cascaborra a kind of bat from which a piece of leather filled with rubber is hanging out. This was used to threaten the people to obtain the alms for the souls.

The suit is composed of a bright coloured vest decorated with borders and embroidery, thread white baggy trousers, also decorated with patternss on the sides and a red hat with a conic form decorated with flowers and handles. The amount of flowers and handles depended on how old the person wearing it was.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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